Plumbing Questions, Answered Straight

A standard tank usually runs about 8 to 12 years. Hard water can shorten that, because scale and sediment make the heater work harder. If yours is past 10, it's worth knowing the age before it picks a bad day to quit. The date is usually coded into the serial number on the label, and I can read it from a photo.

If a part failed and the tank is sound, repair usually makes sense. A thermostat, element, or valve is a small fix. If the tank itself is leaking, there's no repairing it. I'll give you the price and let you make the call.

As a rough guide, 40 gallons suits a home with two or three people and 50 gallons suits three to five. Bathrooms, big tubs, and how many showers run back to back all change that. Tell me who's in the house and I'll size it from there.

That smell usually comes from bacteria reacting with the anode rod inside the tank. If the cold water smells fine and only the hot stinks, the heater is the likely source. Flushing the tank and changing the anode rod often clears it up.

That's usually sediment on the bottom of the tank. Water gets trapped under it, heats up, and pops through. A flush can quiet it down if the sediment hasn't been sitting there for years.

White crust on faucets, spots on dishes, and soap that won't lather are the usual signs. A hardness test tells you how much you're actually dealing with. If the number is low, you may not need one, and I'll tell you that.

If the house already has a loop, it's usually a job of a few hours. Without one, it takes longer, because the lines have to be run first. I'll tell you which you're looking at when I give you the price.

Check the tank about once a month and keep it around a third to half full. How fast it goes depends on your water and how much of it you use. If the salt forms a hard crust on top, break it up so the system can keep working.

For most people, yes. A softener does add a small amount of sodium, so if you're watching your sodium intake, ask your doctor. Some people also run a separate drinking water line at the kitchen sink.

A well-kept softener often lasts 10 to 15 years. Keeping salt in it and having the settings match your water helps it get there. If your water turns hard again, it's worth having it looked at before you assume it's done.

It depends on what's inside the filter. Sediment filters catch sand and grit, and carbon filters take out chlorine and the taste that comes with it. A filter doesn't remove hardness, which is a softener's job.

If you only care about drinking water, a filter at the kitchen sink may be all you need. If you want cleaner water in the showers and appliances too, a whole-home system makes more sense. Tell me what's bothering you and we'll start there.

Cartridge filters are commonly changed every 3 to 6 months, and some larger tank systems go years between media changes. Your water and how much you use decide the real number. Falling water pressure is a good reminder that it's time.

One that's sized right for your house shouldn't make a noticeable difference. Pressure usually drops when a filter is too small or overdue for a change.

If you're on city water, your city publishes a water quality report every year, and that's a good place to start. If you're on a private well, have it tested by a certified lab. Once you know what's in it, picking a filter gets a lot simpler.

I'd skip them. They can be rough on older pipes, and if they don't clear the clog, you've got a drain full of chemicals for whoever opens it next. A plunger or a hand snake is a better first try.

The clog may be getting poked through instead of cleared out, or something farther down keeps catching what comes along. Grease, hair, and pipe with a poor slope are the common causes. When I clear a drain, I'll tell you what I found so you know what to do about it.

Look for more than one drain acting up at the same time. A toilet that gurgles when the washer drains, or water coming up in the tub when you flush, are good clues. Hold off on running water and give me a call.

In a drain you don't use much, the water in the trap may have dried out. Run water for a minute and see if the smell goes away. If it sticks around, it could be buildup in the pipe or a venting problem.

Keep grease out of the kitchen sink, put a hair catcher in the shower, and flush only toilet paper. Wipes that say flushable still cause plenty of clogs. Those three habits prevent most of the calls I'd otherwise get.

It's usually where the water line comes into the house, often in the garage, a utility room, or a crawl space. Find it before you need it and make sure it turns. If it's stuck, that's worth fixing while nothing is leaking.

Turn off everything that uses water and look at your water meter. If it keeps moving, water is going somewhere. Damp drywall, a musty smell, or a water bill that jumps for no reason are other good clues.

Disconnect your hoses before the first hard freeze, and insulate pipes in crawl spaces and garages. On the coldest nights, let a faucet on an outside wall drip and open the cabinet doors under the sink.

If it's only one faucet, the aerator may be clogged. If it's the whole house, it could be a partly closed valve, a failing pressure regulator, a leak, or old pipe narrowed by buildup. Tell me when it started and where you notice it.

Often, yes. If the damage is in one spot and the rest of the pipe is in good shape, replacing that section is the sensible fix. If the whole run is worn out, I'll show you and you can decide what you want to do.